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We visited Stuyvesant’s House in Crow’s Nest on Monday night with two of my coworkers and their partners. I’m always up for some German fare, so we were willing to take a chance on a new place. The restaurant was big on “theme”. Walking through the door, you knew instantly that you were in the land of oompah bands and beer steins. Dark paneling, wooden clogs, and bric-a-brac filled out the dark atmosphere—almost too dark to read the menu.

We had Rudi as our waiter, one of the co-owners (apparently, his brother Max is the chef). To say he was charismatic might be one way of putting it. There was great fanfare and flourish in presenting the menu, and many corny jokes being cracked behind an enormous moustache that entirely covered his mouth. Between the invisible lips and the German accent, I didn’t understand a single thing he said the entire evening. And he said quite a bit…

We started with a round of Bitburger Pilsner, which is highly recommended. In fact, if you just went to Rudi & Max’s for the beer, you’d be well served. Rudi announced a complimentary appetizer of bitterballen, which were provided for us to snack on as we perused the menu. These were breaded veal and chicken meatballs with a side dallop of mustard. Not particularly noteworthy, but as we were famished following a couple rounds of drinks at a nearby bar, they were eagerly inhaled.

We ignored the tome of a wine list (it was impressively large, but entirely intimidating, all the same) and stuck with our beers. The second round was Erdinger Weissenback, which was very good, but a bit sweet for the meal – it would have been best on a hot day while eating some hearty bread. Eric and I shared a plate of meats as a starter (Bündner Teller), and the selection of cured hams and sausage was exceptional. Unfortunately, it was accompanied by just a couple slivers of rye bread, though I suppose that if more bread were offered, the plate would simply be a meal in itself. As it was, we couldn’t finish it. I would love to know if there is a local source for their sausage.

I decided to order one of the specials, pork knuckle (Eisbein über alles), which we were told had just come out of the oven. A first time dish for me, this was a delight—an enormous joint of tender, falling-apart meat encased in a thick, crisp crackling. I’ve seen pork knuckle on many menus and have always been afraid of it, I have to admit. I always imagined it being a wobbly mass of cartilage, fat and bone, without much meat. Eric urged me to try it when I asked if he’d ever tasted it, and he likened it more to a lamb shank, which gave me courage.

Eisbein Über Alles – Roasted Pork Knuckle with Dumplings, Spätzle and Red Cabbage

It was amusing to be the smallest person at the table, receiving the largest plate of food! Far too large to be a one-person serving, the knuckle sat regally atop a mess of sauerkraut, spätzle, dumplings, red cabbage and a ladle full of applesauce (I guess that was the über alles part). While I love all of these things individually, I wasn’t crazy about the way they all blanketed each other on the plate. Nonetheless, it was all delicious. I ate to the point of feeling uncomfortable. In fact, I don’t think I hardly spoke until I was done. It was so good, it demanded my complete focus.

Eric ordered the Venison Baden Baden, which was very excellent. There were slices of steak in a juniper red wine glaze, along with some really interesting, meaty mushrooms, spätzle and red cabbage. It was recommended by Rudi to order the Venison medium rare, but Eric thought it might be a bit too rare and ordered it medium (based on previous experience with venison being servered more rare than not). Medium rare would have indeed been perfect, alas, although it was still very tasty.

Venison Baden Baden, in Juniper & Red Wine Glace, medley of Mushrooms, Spätzle and Red Cabbage

We were far too full for dessert, and just managed to amble a couple blocks down the street when Rudi came running after us. It turned out we had shortchanged him on the bill, and he thought that we seemed much too nice for that not to be a mistake. The miscalculation must have been a combination of many drinks and the dark lighting in the restaurant. We produced the additional cash and apologised profusely for our mistake. At least we were so full, that we had not made it very far before he discovered the lapse. We will have to be more careful about double-checking our math next time.

Stuyvesant’s House
Entrées $12 – $30
Mains $19 – $45
Desserts $10 -$16
Fully Licensed, Extensive Wine List

45 Alexander St
Crows Nest NSW 2065
Ph: 02 9439 7155