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When one thinks of a “hole in the wall” restaurant, it is often with a fondness for a simple (or extremely basic) atmosphere complementing great food that belies the setting. Ramen Kan in Haymarket is more literally a hole in the wall. Not the restaurant itself, actually, but the entrance. If you don’t know what you are looking for, you are likely to walk right by it. And even if you happen to locate the small poster-covered glass door, nestled between two busy storefronts, you have to pass a logic test in elevator navigation to make it to the correct floor. As all the front door leads to is a small foyer, only big enough for three, that has several competing buttons that give only the most subtle clues as to which is the restaurant you seek.

The only clue to the restaurant’s entrance is the sandwich board on the sidewalk.

Navigating the elevator can be half the challenge of getting in. Also, the top two buttons in the picture on the left don’t actually do anything

If you are lucky enough to have weathered the gauntlet, you will be pleasantly welcomed by a small, but well-appointed Japanese restaurant overlooking the busy street. The motif evokes a more traditional setting with ropes on the ceiling and rock-filled trenches on the floor that hint at a japanese garden. I hazard to guess that the ropes represent drying racks for udon, ramen, and soba noodles. The atmosphere is comfortable and stylish and the staff welcome you as you step into the equally small waiting area.

The restaurant’s decor adds to the ambiance

But we’re not there for the nice decor, we’re there for the food. So let’s just get down to it.

Angela and I usually like to start with an entrée, especially when eating Japanese as there are usually several great choices to pick from. On this trip we ordered the Gyoza, Edamame, and a Sashimi plate. The Gyoza was perfectly prepared with a strong, but not overly intense, garlic flavour, and was cooked to perfection with a crisp pan-fried side and a satisfyingly chewing and tender steamed side. The pork filling was hot and full of flavour, mixing well with the dipping sauce. They also prepare a prawn version, but its subtle flavour does not compete as well with the dumpling, sauce and garlic. I suggest staying with the pork.

Gyoza, Pan-fried Pork filled dumplings, with dipping sauce

The Gyoza are pretty hearty, and almost a meal unto themselves. It was nice to accompany them with a plate of fresh Sashimi. The selection of Tuna, Salmon, and Prawns was both visually beautiful and very tasty. A big part of the enjoyment of raw seafood is not just taste, but also the mouth feel, and this dish had both. I think Angela and I wondered if we shouldn’t have just ordered a Sushi and Sashimi platter instead of our other mains. But that is the whole point of these excursions – to try many things to enjoy, and not try and get stuck on something that you know is good at the expense of trying something new.

Fresh Sashimi Entrée

One of my favourite aspects of eating at a Japanese restaurant (and typically Korean as well), is a simple order of Edamame, or soybeans. They can come hot or cold, salted or plain, but they are always tasty and simple. They’re the equivalent of movie popcorn for the restaurant experience. Probably more accurate to describe them as eating peanuts from the shell, but you get the gist.

Edamame (salted soybeans) next to Miso Soup and a simple Shredded Cabbage Salad

Ramen Kan is ostensibly a noodle house, but the fare includes Katsudon, Sushi, and a few other non-noodle dishes. But it is one of the soups that make this place unique – specifically the Tonkotsu, or pork-bone stock. This soup is the epitome of “comfort food”, but it is difficult to enjoy a whole bowl of comfort, as it is also the epitome of “rich”. The stock serves as the basis of many of the noodle soups, but we enjoyed the basic Ramen with sliced Pork.

Pork Tonkotsu Ramen (Pork-bone Stock with Noodles)

Each main also came with a small salad comprised mostly of shredded cabbage and a light soy dressing. Both crunchy and tangy, the salads went very well with the more robust soup and the rice dish. And, as always, a small bowl of Miso soup. I’ve always found it a bit odd to get soup with your soup, but I’ll never pass on a chance to have some Miso. It sits somewhere between a meal and a hearty tea. It is especially welcomed on a cold day, although it was quite warm out on this visit.

Small Cabbage Salad with Soy Dressing

Without actually planning it, we ended up making a wise choice not to order two Tonkotsu-based dishes. They are so rich, it is actually difficult to eat a whole bowl by oneself. We supplemented the rich, salty ramen soup with a bowl of Fish Katsudon. This is made up of fish cooked in batter and then served on top of rice with a sweet soy glaze. To say this is unbelievably good would be an understatement. Easily one of our most enjoyed dishes, although our enjoyment was due in a large part to the whole meal. But it is definitely something to go back for. The fish was melt-in-your-mouth tender and the glaze was just delicate enough to be enticing, without an overwhelming sense of cloying sweetness.

Fish Katsudon (battered fish fillets over rice with a soy glaze)

And, although the food is fantastic, it really impresses us when the little things are done well too. All the bowls and plates are beautiful ceramics (except for the miso bowl which was plastic that looked like ceramic) and even the ladle-like wooden spoons that came with the noodle dishes were wonderful. The wide, wooden spoon allowed you to pile on the long noodles with your chopsticks and still have an amble drink of broth. The rustic, bamboo-handled tool evoked a faraway, timeless place.

Even the utensils are beautiful (Hot and Spicy Udon, in Chicken Broth)

If you are in the mood for inexpensive and well prepared Japanese food, leaning towards the noodle dishes, you’d find it difficult go wrong with Ramen Kan. In fact, you’ll be happy you ventured through that hole in the wall to see what lies beyond.

Ramen Kan, Japanese
Mains $5 – $15
Licensed & BYO, Corkage $2.00 per person

Locations in Chatswood and Bondi Junction